Bobbed flatbed build-up

[maduece]

Been working on this for a couple of weeks now and thought I'd post some pics of the progress so far. The plan is a little different than what you guys intented but we'll see how it all comes out:

[maduece]

more pics....

[maduece]

The plan is to move the fuel tank mid frame and cut the frame after the rear axle and use part of your rear frame extention to create no over hang. The flat bed will be made of square tube. I have to do the rear suspension first before I start mounting anything else.

[JeepinJon]

I am looking forward to seeing the finished results.

[offroader613]

The first pic reminded me of a Scrambler conversion that Collins Brothers did to an LJ.

http://www.collinsbrosjeep.com/images/jeep%20ad%20pictures/06whiteunlimited5022/06ljscrambler.htm

[AEV Dave]

Sweet! I assume you've seen "Jerry's Brute" in the finished section of the site?

The original Brute had a midship tank and a rear mounted spare. If it helps, the issues with the midship tank we had were:

We never did figure out a good way to deal with the ebrake cables
The custom tank we had built never seemed to fill right because of where the fuel filler was placed.
In order to keep the bed floor low enough, we couldn't use the stock tank, or the driveshaft was in the way if we did.

Are you planning on using the half cab shown above with our closeout? I'm not sure if that will work or not, could be worth a try. I thought it was a few inches shorter than the Brute Top.

Let us know if you have any questions. The fab work looks top notch.

dh

[maduece]

Sweet! I assume you've seen "Jerry's Brute" in the finished section of the site?

The original Brute had a midship tank and a rear mounted spare. If it helps, the issues with the midship tank we had were:

We never did figure out a good way to deal with the ebrake cables
The custom tank we had built never seemed to fill right because of where the fuel filler was placed.
In order to keep the bed floor low enough, we couldn't use the stock tank, or the driveshaft was in the way if we did.

Are you planning on using the half cab shown above with our closeout? I'm not sure if that will work or not, could be worth a try. I thought it was a few inches shorter than the Brute Top.

Let us know if you have any questions. The fab work looks top notch.

dh

Thanks, I have seen his brute, at first I thought I would just tube it out like a back-half jeep, but as things progressed and I could see dimensions first hand, it took a turn for the flatbed.

Yeah, I'll be using your close out and hard top. I'll be placing the order after I recover from the Poly P four link rear.

Thanks for the heads up with the midship tank. The top of the tank will dictate to me the hieght of the flatbed and I'm going to use the stock tank. I'm sure my flat bed will turn out taller than Jerry's since he used the stock tank location.

You mentioned the e-brake cables getting in the way, I better go run out and check. I'll post more pics when I get the 4 link finished. Thanks again, Tim.

[floundering]

I'm not sure if these would be long enough but the ebrake cables off a 97 or newer XJ are identical except longer and run near their frames. Simply unbolt bracket right underneath the handle and mount near driver side frame. Mount the three new cables. You may not need to purchase the left ebrake cable as moving the mount next to the frame makes it almost a straight shot to the left rear (I stretched mine 13" and was able to use stock one here). I had plenty of slack, escpecially in the front one which makes me think it'll work even with 11 more inches.

These are also cheap. I think I paid about $20-25 each at the dealer.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s210/floundering101/IMG_2256.jpg

[maduece]

Thanks for the info, I'll keep that in mind if I have too hard of a time with the gas tank being in the way.

[maduece]

The four link is tacked in place and I've been making progress on the truss and frame.

[maduece]

One more showing the proposed rear bumper placement. The rear cradle is going to need to be removed or repositioned, but it shows the rear chop.

[AEV Dave]

Coming along...can't wait to see what you do with the bed.

dh

[maduece]

The four link is in for good except for minor adjustments and the truss is all bolted up. I made a drop bracket for the emergency cable bracket, should buy me a few more inches to get the tank in. I'm close to finishing the frame notch for the coilover on the driver side and modified the winch cradle to clear the truss. I'll be ordering the cab close out within the next month or so.

[maduece]

A few more updated pics...

[AEV Dave]

Looking really really good.

I think I would have had to consider hourglassing the frame even more for rear steer given all the work you went through for the coilover conversion...:)

One suggestion, and I would think your fine given that they are in the rear of the frame and won't see much in terms of repeated flexing, but whenever a fishplate is done, it should be tapered at the ends. This allows the stress to be spread over a greater area and will ensure that a crack does not develop in the frame. Like I said, I think your fine, but its common practice when doing work like that. If you look at the fishplates that came in the kit, you'll see what I mean.

dh

[maduece]

Thanks for the advice, that makes sense about the taper. I'll do that for any I make in the future and just keep a close eye on the ones that are already welded up. Thanks, Tim.

[maduece]

A few more updates...

[maduece]

Two more pics...

[AEV Dave]

Another quick suggestion looking at the photos. If you plan on driving that thing really fast and hard, those bumpstops are going to bend that axle super fast. Maybe you could move them outboard as much as possible to reduce that possibility.

dh

[maduece]

No high speed stuff for me, I'll be under 1 MPH anytime that bumpstop comes into contact with the axle. Do you still see a problem with the setup for rockcrawling and trail driving only?

[Jdemonto]

You may want to build a flat pad for the bumpstops to rest on instead of the tube, I know you said you will be doing slow stuff. Check out many desert trucks, they all have a spot where the bumpstops can hit without bending the axle tube

Jason

[maduece]

A few more updates, thanks for the continued input. The truss is getting dimpled tomorrow.

[maduece]

Two more pics, it's 3/4's of a roller.

[maduece]

Had to re-do the lower mounts to clear the tires a little better during stuff and started running the brake lines. I may have to adjust the top mount too, I won't know until I can flex it out.

[maduece]

Progress on the bed and tire carrier.

[Jdemonto]

Looks good, Keep the pics rollin!

Jason

[sanders16]

Did you ever finish this project? I think it looks real sharp. Update with pictures if you have any.

[maduece]

Still making progress. I had to rework a lot of the bed and get rid of the truss, but she's a driver again. I have a lot of little details to finish up and order the half cab.

[sanders16]

Looks real good, good luck with the little details.

[maduece]

Well it's been a while since the last update but it's a real driver. Still have some details left like the front latches but I'll button all that up soon.

[Da Bear]

That thing is lookin sweet maduece!!!!:D

[maduece]

The expo rack for the back is slowly coming together, complete with a retractable light bar.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r212/maduece/001-17.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r212/maduece/004-7.jpg

[4Low-Dean]

any updates on this build?

[djb_rh]

I'm curious about that linear actuator for the retractable light bar...is that an outdoor capable unit? I didn't think those were...


--Donnie

[MC4X4]

I'm curious about that linear actuator for the retractable light bar...is that an outdoor capable unit? I didn't think those were...


--Donnie

If my memory serves me correct, the used on on the Ultimate Adventure Taco, so you might find something on the 4Wheel and offroad site.
cheers mc

[AEV Dave]

I don't know who makes that actuator, but when I did the raising camper top for the SEMA JK in 2006 I used electric actuators made by LINAK and they were water proof(ish), the ones I used were IP66 but they make more waterproof variants, although I would think IP66 would be fine for that application.

If you look through the screen window you can see them.

1638

dh