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AEV 4.5" LIft 37" tires as a fun Vehicle?

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  • AEV 4.5" LIft 37" tires as a fun Vehicle?

    I order a 2017 Jeep Wrangler Sport unlimited and should have it around the 15th of the month. I'm wanting to build a fun vehicle for the family that will not be a daily driver and most likely not see any off road at all for the first couple of years anyway. My plan is to install a 4.5" AEV lift and then bolt on some 37" Nitto Ridge Grappler's on a set of 17 X 9 rims. The Jeep I ordered is very basic without power windows and door locks and just a soft top. As I plan to leave the doors off and the top down and only drive it on nice days. I did order it however with 3.73 gear, LED headlights, and the reinforced spare tire carrier (teraflex's) to accommodate my plans to mount 37" tires. I know 3.73 gears is no where close to ideal with 37". I hoping it's OK at first and 4.88 gears and inner sleeves will be my very next upgrade after my wife gets over the fact that I bought this in the first place. Does anyone have any advice or experience in this scenario for me? I have a feeling a lot of you will say why not just go with 35" and a 3.5" lift. I personally think 37" on a Unlimited looks the best and with keeping it on the street and at 900' elevation and no big hills in Minnesota I thought it should work good enought. As far as the lift size I'm not set yet. I'm not planning on doing flat fenders and a new front bumper right away so thought the 4.5" was the way to go over the 3.5". Any thought?

  • #2
    Do the 3.5" lift and 37s. If you aren't going off road, no need to do the 4.5. And 37s will work off road with the 3.5 simply by changing out the bump stops in the rear.

    If you don't NEED 4.5" lift, then don't do a 4.5" lift. Your driveshaft will live longer.

    And DO NOT put sleeves in. Don't put a truss on the axle and don't weld braces to the Cs. None of that is necessary for your situation, even if you do someday venture off road.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by donjku View Post
      Do the 3.5" lift and 37s. If you aren't going off road, no need to do the 4.5. And 37s will work off road with the 3.5 simply by changing out the bump stops in the rear.

      If you don't NEED 4.5" lift, then don't do a 4.5" lift. Your driveshaft will live longer.

      And DO NOT put sleeves in. Don't put a truss on the axle and don't weld braces to the Cs. None of that is necessary for your situation, even if you do someday venture off road.
      Are flat fender flats required to fit 37" with a 3.5" lift"

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      • #4
        As mentioned above when going from a 3.5" lift to 4.5" is the driveshafts the only thing to be concerned about over time? Is this something I can get 40,000 miles out of the stock ones before they fail on me or are we talking like 10,000 miles?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Combs19 View Post
          Are flat fender flats required to fit 37" with a 3.5" lift"
          No, they are not. And remember, the only time you have to worry about tires rubbing fenders is at full articulation. If you are not even planning to go offroad for a few years, why worry about it. And when you do go off roading, do you think you will be doing trails that max out your suspension travels??

          When it comes to running stock driveshafts on a lifted jeep, there are really 2 issues at play. One is the interference between the driveshaft and the exhaust cross over pipe during fairly extreme axle articulation. If you just drive it on the street, you don't need to be concerned about this issue. Even if you do some easy to moderate fire roads in the woods of MN, you may not need to worry about this issue. You will have more clearance between the stock driveshaft and the exhaust cross over with a 3.5" lift than with a 4.5" lift. Not a huge difference, but every little bit helps.

          The second issue with running a stock driveshaft on a lifted jeep is the stock Rzeppa joint at the transfer case is not designed to operate at extreme angles. The angle will be less with a 3.5" lift than with a 4.5" lift. Less angle means the joint will be stressed less, and less stress should, all other things being equal, result in a longer joint life.

          Bottom line, IMO, put the 3.5" lift on, buy the 37s and just drive it. Have fun and worry about stuff when you start to really wheel it, which may be never. Build the jeep for the intended purpose, not according to crap you read on the internet. (and that is NOT a dig on the AEV forum. generally info here is better than most other forums)

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          • #6
            If you need someone to help build your jeep I'm in MN aswell. I building a jeep similar to yours today actually


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            • #7
              Originally posted by redrockjk View Post
              If you need someone to help build your jeep I'm in MN aswell. I building a jeep similar to yours today actually


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              Thanks for the offer. I might need help in the future if I decide to start off roading it. I have alot of experience lifting heavy-duty trucks over the year so I'm hoping I can figure out the lift on the jeep. I just have no experience with driveshafts, reinforcing axles and gear changes.

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              • #8
                AEV 4.5" LIft 37" tires as a fun Vehicle?

                I would highly suggest not doing 37s and 3.73s. You will hate driving the jeep. You won't even use OD and the jeep will be pretty gutless aswell.

                And if you don't plan on upgrading axles I would also highly suggest you sleeve and gusset that front axle even if you don't plan to Offroad the jeep. I see 3-4 jeeps a month with bent front axles that the owner claims the jeep has never been off the pavement.

                If you do plan on spending the money and time on sleeve, gusseting and gearing your stock axles you would be money ahead just buying a set of new 4:10 Rubicon axles. I have customers that do that often as you get 4.10 gears, lockers and over all bigger axles in one shot. Plus you can get $2000 for your old axles.


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                Last edited by redrockjk; 04-05-2017, 07:34 AM.

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                • #9
                  If I was to install one of these exhaust pipes/spacers when installing either the 3.5 or 4.5" kit which one would be the best.
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Combs19 View Post
                    If I was to install one of these exhaust pipes/spacers when installing either the 3.5 or 4.5" kit which one would be the best.


                    If you don't plan on off-roading the jeep then you don't need any exhaust mods. If anything I would put the money towards an after market driveshaft that would gain you exhaust clearance plus the ability to be able to grease and maintain your front drive shaft. The oem drive shafts with 3.5in lift or more don't last very long in MN. I replace 2-3 a week from the CV joint at the tcase failing


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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by redrockjk View Post
                      If you don't plan on off-roading the jeep then you don't need any exhaust mods. If anything I would put the money towards an after market driveshaft that would gain you exhaust clearance plus the ability to be able to grease and maintain your front drive shaft. The oem drive shafts with 3.5in lift or more don't last very long in MN. I replace 2-3 a week from the CV joint at the tcase failing


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                      What driveshaft do you recommend? Tom woods 1310?

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Combs19 View Post
                        What driveshaft do you recommend? Tom woods 1310?


                        Tom woods is good but definitely on the highest end of the spectrum. Adams driveshafts are good otherwise Mopar makes one part# 77072354 w/1310 spicer joints and part#68271086AA yolk kit. I wanna say that Mopar shaft is $300 or so


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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by redrockjk View Post
                          Tom woods is good but definitely on the highest end of the spectrum. Adams driveshafts are good otherwise Mopar makes one part# 77072354 w/1310 spicer joints and part#68271086AA yolk kit. I wanna say that Mopar shaft is $300 or so


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                          Do you know what the part # is for the Mopar one. Might what to just order from the dealer before I get my Jeep in.

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                          • #14
                            Sorry just saw those are the mopar part #'s thanks!

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                            • #15
                              Yes it's the number listed in my quoted post

                              #77072354 driveshaft
                              #68271086aa yolk kit


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