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JKU 2.5" DS lift, 35s, and stock fenders. Issues?

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  • JKU 2.5" DS lift, 35s, and stock fenders. Issues?

    Disclaimer: I've searched at length but can't seem to find a consensus answer to my question.

    The local AEV install shop is trying to talk me into going with the 3.5" kit rather than the 2.5", claiming that it will only be a matter of time before I tear my stock fenders off with the 2.5" lift. They also claimed that there "is no point" in using the geometry correction brackets that I want with the 2.5" kit. And another somewhat related annoyance is they are trying to convince me to go with an 18" wheel rather than the 17" I'd prefer.

    I'd prefer the 2.5" kit for a number of reasons (including fitting into my garage even with a rack on top), and I'm unwilling to go with a smaller tire. I find it odd that AEV markets this kit as being able to fit 35s, countless people seem to run this setup, and countless custom truck shops are selling this combo, but that this shop is telling me I'll have issues if I tackle the slightest ditch. The things this shop is telling me seem to run counter to everything I read in this forum - what is the truth?

    Other possibly pertinent info:
    - Planned tires: 35x12.5 R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers (these seem to actually run close to 35 inches)
    - I haven't made a final decision on wheels but will choose some with backspacing/offset close to AEV wheels
    - 2012 JKU Sahara
    - Currently running stock bumpers but future plans to upgrade to AEV bumpers
    Last edited by sporter; 05-18-2017, 05:27 PM. Reason: typos

  • #2
    First off, I'd find another shop to do the install. Now for your questions. I ran the 2.5 with 35" KM2s and never had a fender rub issue even with the sway bar disconnected. Granted the Nitto is a bigger tire than the KM2 so I guess it's possible to get a little rubbing, but I don't see it being a major issue. Make sure you keep the backspacing the same as AEVs wheels which is part of the reason for no rubbing. You can run the 2.5 with or without the geo brackets. I felt that they did improve the ride and were worth the cost.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2012 JKUR 3.5 SC, F/R Bumpers, HRH, Savegres, KM2s

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    • #3
      I have wheeled with panhead and he had 2.5" on his 4 door he never ripped a flare off when we did the rubicon trail. I put a 2.5" on my 16 jkr and spent a week in moab and never rubbed a fender flare. I did most of the tougher trails ie golden spike, behind the rocks, strike ravine, Kane cr etc. that all said panhead ended up going 3.5 before we did dusy ershim and after I got back from Moab I installed a 3.5" personally I think the 3.5" does ride and handle better which is crazy but that's my story and I am sticking to it. oh and 3.5 looks great.

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      • #4
        I agree with "Daveh" and "jeffd". I have a 2 1/2 (with K02's) and have not had any rubbing issues. I've also run the Rubicon trail with the 2 1/2". As you can see in the photo. The tires tuck underneath the fenders nicely. The wheels are similar backspacing to the AEV's. Disregard the comments from that shop.
        Attached Files
        2012 Flame Red Rubicon
        2.5" XT Suspension w/Geo Brackets - AEV Roof Rack, Premium Front Bumper, Tire Carrier, Front Skid Plate
        35x12.50 BFG KO2 on 17X8.5 Quadratec machine finish Moab wheels, Rigid Duallys, Rigid 10" Radiance light bar

        Comment


        • #5
          I'll be selling my 2.5" XT kit later next week if you live near Colorado. I ran it with 35's and no problem with stock fenders ever (including MOAB EJS). I have spacers on some old AEV beadlocks ().

          Comment


          • #6
            The 3.5 is a better and more complete lift, but sounds like your shop doesn't know what it's talking about. The geometry correction brackets don't work if you're not lifted high enough but you should be with the 2.5 (that's why it has a 2.5 setting on the bracket). Any rubbing would be real minor.

            Find a new shop or do it yourself. The 2.5 lift it pretty straight-forward to install and can be done in a day in your driveway. Good luck with the set up!
            2014 Granite JKUR w/expo stuff

            Comment


            • #7
              JKU 2.5" DS lift, 35s, and stock fenders. Issues?

              I ran the 2.5DS on my 2 door. I had 35" KM2's on stock 17" wheels with Spydertrax spacers and had no rubbing. I then changed to a 17x9 ATX wheel with 4.5BS and 35" Goodyear MTR/K and had some rubbing up front. Nothing that would pull a fender off, but my wife sure didn't like the sound of it.
              I'd agree with the others, either do it yourself or find a new shop. The 2.5 kit was an easy install with hand tools, a floor jack and good stands.
              And I'm not expert, but it seems tire choices in an 18" are limited and expensive.
              And a side note, I also used the geo brackets for awhile, shortly after I removed them (out of curiosity) the boot on my front CV let go. Lots of disconnected off road may have been the culprit.
              Last edited by Bthomas; 05-19-2017, 03:42 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by lucky73 View Post
                I'll be selling my 2.5" XT kit later next week if you live near Colorado. I ran it with 35's and no problem with stock fenders ever (including MOAB EJS). I have spacers on some old AEV beadlocks ().
                Question are you using TJ bolt pattern wheels on a JK?
                "Dont wish for it,work for it."
                2014 Anvil Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited-Procal-Heat Reduction hood and Snorkel with prefilter-black Pintlers-Superlift 2.5 with AEV Geo brackets-buffalo key chain

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                • #9
                  thanks everyone for the advice. I'm definitely thinking I'll stay away from the shop and do the install myself if I can convince myself to pull the trigger on the 2.5" over the 3.5".

                  Originally posted by Bthomas View Post
                  I ran the 2.5DS on my 2 door. I had 35" KM2's on stock 17" wheels with Spydertrax spacers and had no rubbing. I then changed to a 17x9 ATX wheel with 4.5BS and 35" Goodyear MTR/K and had some rubbing up front. Nothing that would pull a fender off, but my wife sure didn't like the sound of it.
                  think it was the tire that led to the rubbing (MTR/Ks being taller than the small-running KM2s) or the wheel? I'm actually considering some of the ATX wheel options, so with the ridge grapplers I'd probably have the same issue. Was the rubbing bad enough that you ever did anything about it?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by sporter View Post
                    Disclaimer: I've searched at length but can't seem to find a consensus answer to my question.

                    The local AEV install shop is trying to talk me into going with the 3.5" kit rather than the 2.5", claiming that it will only be a matter of time before I tear my stock fenders off with the 2.5" lift. They also claimed that there "is no point" in using the geometry correction brackets that I want with the 2.5" kit. And another somewhat related annoyance is they are trying to convince me to go with an 18" wheel rather than the 17" I'd prefer.

                    I'd prefer the 2.5" kit for a number of reasons (including fitting into my garage even with a rack on top), and I'm unwilling to go with a smaller tire. I find it odd that AEV markets this kit as being able to fit 35s, countless people seem to run this setup, and countless custom truck shops are selling this combo, but that this shop is telling me I'll have issues if I tackle the slightest ditch. The things this shop is telling me seem to run counter to everything I read in this forum - what is the truth?

                    Other possibly pertinent info:
                    - Planned tires: 35x12.5 R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers (these seem to actually run close to 35 inches)
                    - I haven't made a final decision on wheels but will choose some with backspacing/offset close to AEV wheels
                    - 2012 JKU Sahara
                    - Currently running stock bumpers but future plans to upgrade to AEV bumpers
                    Of course you can run the 2.5" DualSport with 35" tires. One of our employees is running that setup right now with true 35s (Pitbull tires) and I have multiple friends running the 2.5" with 35" Nitto Ridge Grapplers or Goodyear Duratracs. All setups I just referred to are using AEV wheels and are not experiencing any rubbing with stock fender flares. Please email me the name of the shop you were talking to (cholt@aev-conversions.com). The geometry correction brackets, while an optional upgrade for the 2.5" kit, are a key component to allow your new AEV suspension to function in the best way possible.

                    I myself have the 2.5" kit and geometry correction brackets. I could not imagine it without them. While I am not running 35" tires yet, I fully plan on it. I would strongly recommend going with the 2.5" DualSport Suspension System that you have your eyes on, add the geometry correction brackets and a Procal. Also, with your OEM plastic bumpers, you will notice a lift height closer to 3" until you add steel bumpers into the mix. The below product page describes the many benefits of the geometry correction brackets.

                    https://secure.aev-conversions.com/s...n-brackets-frt
                    Chris Holt
                    Marketing Associate, AEV
                    248-926-0256 x272
                    cholt@aev-conversions.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by sporter View Post
                      thanks everyone for the advice. I'm definitely thinking I'll stay away from the shop and do the install myself if I can convince myself to pull the trigger on the 2.5" over the 3.5".







                      think it was the tire that led to the rubbing (MTR/Ks being taller than the small-running KM2s) or the wheel? I'm actually considering some of the ATX wheel options, so with the ridge grapplers I'd probably have the same issue. Was the rubbing bad enough that you ever did anything about it?


                      I think the combo of a full size 35 and the BS of 4.5 was what caused the rub. I don't remember for sure, but I think using spacers with the stock wheels comes out to around 4.75 BS. So I think a full 35 would have been fine that way. Mine didn't rub bad enough for ME to worry about. It really was very minor, and only at full stuff and full turn. My wife hated it, so I eventually changed to flat fenders.

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                      • #12
                        thanks Bthomas. Just to be safe, I think I'll go with a 4.75 BS rim instead of the 4.5 ATX ones I was considering. I had my eye on some pro comps with 4.75 BS anyway, and they are a much lighter weight wheel.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'm pretty sure everything else has been addressed, except for the 18" wheel suggestion. That is another huge red flag about that shop. There is absolutely no reason to try and move up from a 17" wheel, other than them trying to gouge you for it. The tires cost more for a larger rim, you sacrifice a little more ride quality because of less rubber between the wheel and pavement, and you also risk more wheel damage once you get them in the rocks. Sounds like the shop is more about making a mall crawler that an actual rock crawler.
                          '07 JK Sahara 6 speed
                          AEV F&R bumpers
                          Warn Zeon 10
                          AEV rear 5 gal. water tank
                          RK 2.5 X-Factor Lift
                          35x12.50R17
                          Kicker speaker takeover complete
                          5.38 gears, locked and loaded on Rubi's


                          '00 Supercharged Toyota 4x4
                          3" OME lift

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by jsukey View Post
                            I'm pretty sure everything else has been addressed, except for the 18" wheel suggestion. That is another huge red flag about that shop. There is absolutely no reason to try and move up from a 17" wheel, other than them trying to gouge you for it. The tires cost more for a larger rim, you sacrifice a little more ride quality because of less rubber between the wheel and pavement, and you also risk more wheel damage once you get them in the rocks. Sounds like the shop is more about making a mall crawler that an actual rock crawler.
                            He really seemed to be all about a certain "stance" that he thinks everyone is after. I got the impression he liked larger wheels with potentially more negative offset that stick out real far, which may be why his other customers are ripping their fenders off with the 2.5" lift. Just a hunch.

                            Anyway, I'm pairing some 4.75" BS 17" rims with the Ridge Grapplers. These should run super close to the AEV measurements, so hopefully I can throw the kit on myself and be good to go with no issues. Again thanks everybody for the advice!

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