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  • Rear bumper water tanks.

    Well just for the heck of it I decided to see just how much water I could pump back out of the water tanks last night. I got an empty one-gallon milk jug so I could judge it better. All I could get out before it started to pump just air was 2 and 2/3rd gallons and about the last 1/2 gallon was a pain because it was the last 1/4 of each stroke where water would come out.

    I thought that maybe the very stiff plastic pickup tube wasn't placed right so i tried several times to make sure it was. This is very disappointing to say the least.
    Last edited by 1222; 02-23-2012, 11:15 AM.

  • #2
    Thats not exactly sanitary if you end up leaving that much water in the tank all the time. How do you drain the tank? I'm assuming there is a drain plug?

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    • #3
      I know and agree with you and also there is no drain plug either which I think should have been built into each tank. I wonder just how many other people have the same luck as me? Has anyone ever tried to see exactly how much water they can extract from their tanks?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by offcamber View Post
        How do you drain the tank? I'm assuming there is a drain plug?
        I just detach the tube from both sides and turn the connectors that the tube plugs into so that they're facing down.
        '10 JKU Rubicon/auto/5.13s - AEV 4.5 + 37 KM2s (on Pintlers), AEV Front Bumper/Skid/Warn 9.5ti, AEV Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier, AEV Diff Skid, PS Evap Skid, Rock Hard Oil/Tran/Cat Skid

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        • #5
          I really don’t feel like doing that in fear of starting a leak, plus the hose is supper stiff. By the way, have you ever seen how much water you can pump back out of your tanks? I’m curious if it’s the same as mine for others.

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          • #6
            Drain Valve

            I had a plumber install a valve on the passenger side cross feed tube between the tank and bumper. It rotates up out of sight and drains the system completely. I did this for two reasons. First I was concerned about freezing and second because of the rather poor performance of the pump. Mine broke after a dozen uses. The valve allows me to drain the system or fill a container placed underneath. It's also easy to slide an extended hose on the outlet of the valve and run the new hose away from the underside of the vehicle to get it away from dirt. Works really well. I had a plumber do it because I'm not familiar with the fittings used on this type of tubing but it only took him 10 minutes so if you know how to fit a valve on this type of pipe it should be an easy DIY.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by stubblehead View Post
              I had a plumber install a valve on the passenger side cross feed tube between the tank and bumper. It rotates up out of sight and drains the system completely. I did this for two reasons. First I was concerned about freezing and second because of the rather poor performance of the pump. Mine broke after a dozen uses. The valve allows me to drain the system or fill a container placed underneath. It's also easy to slide an extended hose on the outlet of the valve and run the new hose away from the underside of the vehicle to get it away from dirt. Works really well. I had a plumber do it because I'm not familiar with the fittings used on this type of tubing but it only took him 10 minutes so if you know how to fit a valve on this type of pipe it should be an easy DIY.
              Got a pic?
              2012 JKU Rubicon - delivered 8/19/2011

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              • #8
                Originally posted by comac90 View Post
                Got a pic?
                x2!
                '10 JKU Rubicon/auto/5.13s - AEV 4.5 + 37 KM2s (on Pintlers), AEV Front Bumper/Skid/Warn 9.5ti, AEV Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier, AEV Diff Skid, PS Evap Skid, Rock Hard Oil/Tran/Cat Skid

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                • #9
                  I'll take one tomorrow and try to figure out how to post it...new to this.

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                  • #10
                    Sounds like a great idea, I’m waiting for a pic too.

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                    • #11
                      Interesting alternative. If you can get the name of the part (type of valve) from the guy who installed it, that would be helpful, too.
                      2009 JK Rubi (4DR, Det. Yellow)
                      AEV: 3.5" SC, Fr/Rr Bumpers w/ all works, Corner Guards, Rr Diff Slider, Hood, Snorkel, Pre-Filter, Savegres

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                      • #12
                        Anyone from AEV, any comments about why I can only get 2 and 2/3 gallons out of the tanks? Sure would like to know what I’m doing wrong if anything.

                        Also, has anyone actually tried to see just how much they can pump out of theirs too?
                        Last edited by 1222; 02-26-2012, 03:40 PM.

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                        • #13
                          I use mine fairly often while camping but have never measured the amount removed. I've never run out because I usually top them off whenever I have the opportunity. I'll fill them this week and measure how much I can remove. I do know it's important to get as air tight of a seal on the pump as possible. I think it's important not to draw in any outside air on the upstroke. Maybe a stupid question but did you measure the amount of water you put in the tanks before trying to remove it?
                          2000 TJ (lots of stuff)
                          2008 JK Unlimited (daily driver)
                          2010 Rubicon Unlimited 3.5 AEV suspension , Pintlers , 35" KM2's , AEV Bumpers , Warn 9.5ti , AEV Hood / Snorkel / Fuel Caddy

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                          • #14
                            Are you sure you're properly vented? A pluged vent might have something to do with not being able to get water out of the farside tank. Just a thought

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                            • #15
                              Water Tank Valve

                              OK here are some pics of the valve. The "stowed" shot shows what it looks like when rotated up. Th pic makes it look like it hangs down but in reality the cross feed tube is in the same position it was before installation of the valve. The quarter turn on/off lever rests against the tank and thus can not open (opens counter clockwise from this perspective). It's up and out of the way. Next is "stowed close". Simply a "close up" in the stowed position. As you can see there's a 1/2 inch brass "T" inline on the cross feed tube. Then another short piece of 1/2 inch tube is connected to the 90 of the "T" and that connects to a 1/2 inch valve with a quarter turn lever to open/close. The entire assembly rotates. The next pic shows the assembly rotated down with the valve closed. In order to rotate down the cross feed tube needs to be flexed a little. The advantage of this is that it can't rotate down on it's own. The next pic is the extended view with the valve open. The last pic is a 6 foot extension hose pushed on the the outlet side of the valve. My outlet side is 3/8 inch but you can get 1/2 inch outlets and if I did it over I'd get the 1/2 inch. We were working with what was on hand when this was done. I've also included links to to a site that has the "T" and valve. I haven't used this site and can't vouch for them but this stuff appears to be readily available. Having said that I couldn't find the valve today at Home Depot. Lastly, you can see that the "T" and valve are secured using some type of what looks like a compression clamp. I didn't see this part performed but I bet it requires a special tool. I also don't see why hose clamps won't work. All in all it works great and doesn't leak. If I leave any water in the system it would be no more than a few ounces. If I elevate the driver side rear wheel (park on a rock) the valve becomes the lowest part of the system. I no longer use the pump at all. Hope this helps.

                              http://www.pexsupply.com/PEX-Fittings-525000
                              Attached Files

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