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  • #46
    Originally posted by jadkar View Post
    however, I guess the answer is the same you keep it in the truck.
    Are you talking about having to keep the piece circled in yellow below in your truck?
    Attached Files
    '10 JKU Rubicon/auto/5.13s - AEV 4.5 + 37 KM2s (on Pintlers), AEV Front Bumper/Skid/Warn 9.5ti, AEV Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier, AEV Diff Skid, PS Evap Skid, Rock Hard Oil/Tran/Cat Skid

    Comment


    • #47
      Originally posted by jadkar View Post
      I don't have the big red base. however, I guess the answer is the same you keep it in the truck.
      I'm still a bit confused as to which "base" you're talking about ...

      IF you're referring to the plastic, orange AEV 'base' (see pic below that was also posted above) that the stock, screw-jack sits on when jacking up the rig from under the axle, then it fits perfectly in the storage compartment located in the floor of the rear load space.



      If you're referring to the black, metal AEV replacement 'base' for the hi-lift, it stays on the hi-lift and hooks into the Hi-Lift mount to help support the Hi-Lift.

      Also, I think this is pretty commonly known, but in case someone doesn't know, the Hi-Lift replacement base has the same footprint as the stock, screw-jack base - so, the orange jack base (pictured above) can double as a base of the Hi-Lift in sand, etc...

      T
      Last edited by comac90; 06-30-2012, 07:03 PM.
      2012 JKU Rubicon - delivered 8/19/2011

      Comment


      • #48
        And if it's the red, metal base circled in the thing a post or two above, that's pretty much not necessary any more (unless you're going to sell your hi-lift later on down the road).
        '10 JKU Rubicon/auto/5.13s - AEV 4.5 + 37 KM2s (on Pintlers), AEV Front Bumper/Skid/Warn 9.5ti, AEV Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier, AEV Diff Skid, PS Evap Skid, Rock Hard Oil/Tran/Cat Skid

        Comment


        • #49
          OK..... real easy. First off guys...not everyone's high-lift is red Mine is dark grey, almost black. It came with a base painted the same color as the jack. The instructions say to remove it and put the AEV supplied base on it, which is small. I assume that when I jack the vehicle I will want to remove the small AEV supplied base and put on the High-Lift jack base it came with as its a bit bigger.

          Now, the orange plastic jack base that comes with the AEV lift kit. I don't have it. I bought my kit used and the seller didn't supply me with one.

          So the question is..... Can I store the High-Lift jack base somewhere on the mount with the jack or do most of you discard it because you're using the Orange plastic base that came with the lift. Either way we would be keeping something in the Jeep. I just don't know why anyone would use the orange plastic base with a high lift. The whole purpose of the Orange plastic base was to raise the stock jack, but that's clearly not a problem with the high-lift jack. Plus using a high-lift can be dangerous enough why have it sitting on a giant piece of plastic that could flip if the truck got shaky.

          ...after re-reading the above it seems you guys just don't use the high-lift base anymore. I guess the AEV one it large enough.... or you use it with the orange plastic thingy.
          Last edited by jadkar; 06-30-2012, 07:41 PM.
          2012 JKU Arctic Edition 4.5" AEV / Clayton combo, 37" IROKs, ProRock 44, ARB Locked, + some stuff
          2006 BMW M6 - SMG
          2014 Acura MDX
          1990 Honda CRX Si bored / stroked / supercharged ITR

          Comment


          • #50
            Originally posted by jadkar View Post
            OK..... real easy. First off guys...not everyone's high-lift is red Mine is dark grey, almost black. It came with a base painted the same color as the jack.
            okay - I'm clear now. My Hi-Lift is grey, too. LOL

            Originally posted by jadkar View Post
            ...after re-reading the above it seems you guys just don't use the high-lift base anymore. I guess the AEV one it large enough.... or you use it with the orange plastic thingy.
            Correct - you don't need to remove the AEV hi-lift base and replace it with the stock one every time you use the Hi-Lift. Leave the AEV base on - it works fine. I would recommend buying the plastic, orange jack base, though ... it stores easily and can be used with the hi-lift anytime you need a bigger foot print (softer ground, sand, etc) AND it makes your stock jack use-able again with the suspension lift.

            T
            2012 JKU Rubicon - delivered 8/19/2011

            Comment


            • #51
              Originally posted by jadkar View Post
              The whole purpose of the Orange plastic base was to raise the stock jack, but that's clearly not a problem with the high-lift jack.
              Don't forget that the orange plastic base also functions as an "off-road" base. It will give you much better support ("flotation") in soft soil + snow, places the factory jack (and hi-lift) by themselves aren't much good in.
              '10 JKU Rubicon/auto/5.13s - AEV 4.5 + 37 KM2s (on Pintlers), AEV Front Bumper/Skid/Warn 9.5ti, AEV Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier, AEV Diff Skid, PS Evap Skid, Rock Hard Oil/Tran/Cat Skid

              Comment


              • #52
                Lock....anyone???

                Guys have any of you locked your High-Lift into the carrier? I saw earlier on this thread a bike bicycle style cable used but I'm looking to use just a pad lock of some sort. There's an extra hole on the latch but it looks like it’s there for no reason?

                I need to lock it down because some ass at my job (don't know who) decided it would be funny to unscrew the latch knob. He left it on my driver’s side door handle with a sticky note on my window saying "Wouldn't it suck if you drove home without this knob." I'm not sure if he was trying to prove a point about safely but regardless if I find out who it is I'm gonna kick their ass!! I drive an extremely long distance to work every day at a good clip and if for whatever reason I didn't see his note that High-Lift may have come off on Rt80 and it could kill someone if it went through the windshield most likely leaving me responsible.
                2012 JKU Arctic Edition 4.5" AEV / Clayton combo, 37" IROKs, ProRock 44, ARB Locked, + some stuff
                2006 BMW M6 - SMG
                2014 Acura MDX
                1990 Honda CRX Si bored / stroked / supercharged ITR

                Comment


                • #53
                  I'm looking for a lock as well, but have not found one. For now, I only plan to put the jack on when we go out.
                  I did cut down some 1/2" PVC pipe for use as a spacer (where the screw knob goes) when the hilift jack is not in the bracket, but have also considered just pulling off the top bracket.
                  Mike

                  2011 JKU Rubicon
                  Argent Pintlers
                  37x12.5 KO2s
                  2.5" dual sport xt
                  Premium front bumper
                  AEV rear bumper with tire carrier

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    My buddy killed my Hi-Lift mount today at Rausch Creek today.

                    As you can see, the tree on the right has taken some abuse before. He took a line that kept the body away from the tree, but the high-lift stuck up high enough to firmly hit the tree.

                    The impact snapped the black turn knob off the pin that keeps the jack in the mount, as well as bending the heck out of the pin. The part of the mount above the tire carrier also bent slightly towards the passenger side.

                    No issue with the mount quality here, this was definite product abuse. Just wanted to share my experience with whapping it against a tree.
                    Attached Files
                    '10 JKU Rubicon/auto/5.13s - AEV 4.5 + 37 KM2s (on Pintlers), AEV Front Bumper/Skid/Warn 9.5ti, AEV Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier, AEV Diff Skid, PS Evap Skid, Rock Hard Oil/Tran/Cat Skid

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Hey bud I'm sorry to here about that. You know just this past weekend a friend of mine said "You better watch that jack install on our types of trails, we're not wheeln' in wide open areas like all those photos on the AEV site."

                      He was being slightly coy, but after looking at your photo ..... meybe he has a point.
                      2012 JKU Arctic Edition 4.5" AEV / Clayton combo, 37" IROKs, ProRock 44, ARB Locked, + some stuff
                      2006 BMW M6 - SMG
                      2014 Acura MDX
                      1990 Honda CRX Si bored / stroked / supercharged ITR

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Bumping an old thread, but I'd like more details on the modification done to the Pul-Pal "Shovel Head". I saw the diameter of the holes, but any idea on the measurements (positioning)? And, about the Wing Nut/Bolt from Hi-Lift used to holt the "Shovel Head", doesn't it use a button head bolt with a square insert? Was this able to tightem up properly? Thanks!

                        Originally posted by Rexjc View Post
                        Good question. I put a level on my roof and measured the distance above the bottom of the level. The Pull Pal is about 3.75" above the roof line. The Hi-Lift with the clamp on top is about 5.25" above the roof line. Without the clamp, it would be 3.25" above the roof line.

                        The thought of having a sharp heavy metal blade bouncing around the inside of my Jeep seemed like a bad idea, so I mounted the blade onto the Hi-Lift jack. I called Hi-Lift and ordered a set of bolts and wing nuts for around $13 (including shipping). Apparently, a lot of people loose their wing nuts (hate it when that happens) and it's a standard item for them. You'll have to drill two fairly large holes through the blade. I believe that I used a 7/8 bit. Obviously you'll need to start with a smaller bit and work your way up in size. Because of the angled surface area and the thickness of the metal, you'll want to use a drill press and some creative clamping.

                        The AEV bracket is really well designed. It's not just a simple bracket. You can see that a lot of engineering time and thought went into it. Had no problem lining it up on the tire carrier. The fastening hardware has a polished finish which stands out from the rest of the bumper/tire carrier. A few shots of AEV touch up paint took care of that.
                        Certified New Car Sales Consultant & Jeep specialist @ Szott M59 Chrysler Jeep, 6700 Highland Rd., White Lake, MI 48383. (248) 535-4333 [email protected]

                        I don't just sell Jeeps, I own them, I modify them, I wheel them, and I occasionally break them and have to repair them.

                        Previous: 2010 JKUR AEV
                        Current: 2012 JKUR AEV (FOR SALE) http://forum.aev-conversions.com/sho...189#post102189
                        Next: 2016 JKUR Hard Rock

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Thanks for the pictures and info aristobrat. I can see that type of vertical Hi-Lift mount causing trouble with trees here too.

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Originally posted by Rexjc View Post

                            Good question. I put a level on my roof and measured the distance above the bottom of the level. The Pull Pal is about 3.75" above the roof line. The Hi-Lift with the clamp on top is about 5.25" above the roof line. Without the clamp, it would be 3.25" above the roof line.

                            The thought of having a sharp heavy metal blade bouncing around the inside of my Jeep seemed like a bad idea, so I mounted the blade onto the Hi-Lift jack. I called Hi-Lift and ordered a set of bolts and wing nuts for around $13 (including shipping). Apparently, a lot of people loose their wing nuts (hate it when that happens) and it's a standard item for them. You'll have to drill two fairly large holes through the blade. I believe that I used a 7/8 bit. Obviously you'll need to start with a smaller bit and work your way up in size. Because of the angled surface area and the thickness of the metal, you'll want to use a drill press and some creative clamping.

                            The AEV bracket is really well designed. It's not just a simple bracket. You can see that a lot of engineering time and thought went into it. Had no problem lining it up on the tire carrier. The fastening hardware has a polished finish which stands out from the rest of the bumper/tire carrier. A few shots of AEV touch up paint took care of that.

                            This is great! I will install the pull pal shovel the same way!
                            Also - I installed to 42” high lift on my Jeep. It is about the same height as the soft top. The pill pal sticks up a tad higher

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