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Installing backlit Contura switches on sPod

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  • Installing backlit Contura switches on sPod

    I recently ordered some of the new Contura V Backlight switches from OTRATTW to install in my sPod. I finally got around to it this weekend and I am really happy with the results. I went for the V1D1FHNB switches, which are independently wired with a green LED and have an amber LED that lights up when turned the accessory is turned on.

    I went with green lights hoping that they would match the factory lighting better than any others. The green lights look good, but the color is quite a bit different from the teal lighting of the Jeep interior. I would say that the green switch color is closer to that of the fog light icon, but a little more yellow.

    The wiring layout of the new backlight switches is the same as the original Contura switches in the sPod, so it is easy to switch the switches out and hook up the wiring to the same locations. The only difference is the addition of a hookup for power and a ground to the second LED.
    I know it is not an AEV related issue, but I think quite a few of you guys have sPods and I wanted to let you know that I finally got some of the dimmable Contura V switches from OTRATTW installed and hooked up. It really turned out sweet and made a cool product that much better.

    The first thing I did was wire up female connectors to hook up to the dash light circuit and also connectors to hook up to the ground. I connected the ground to the existing ground wired into the sPod with a jumper between the third and fourth switches.



    Once that was done, I popped the bottom portion of the dash off and tied into the dimmable circuit used to light the seat heater, mirror, and electrical outlet switches. This wire is orange with a blue stripe and was the fourth wire from the left on the top of the connector that attaches directly behind the mirror adjustment knob. I then ran the wire up to the sPod and everything was good to go. It was a little scary ripping into the dash, but really not a big deal and it is cool having the lights dimmable.

    The diagram below shows the specs for the wires I used on each of the jumpers. If anyone has any questions, just holler!
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Rynomar; 05-06-2012, 09:49 PM.

  • #2
    Here are a couple more shots.
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      That's awesome thanks for sharing. I've been wanting to do this mod myself. Any more info you care to share to advise if I was going to try this?
      Certified New Car Sales Consultant & Jeep specialist @ Szott M59 Chrysler Jeep, 6700 Highland Rd., White Lake, MI 48383. (248) 535-4333 [email protected]

      I don't just sell Jeeps, I own them, I modify them, I wheel them, and I occasionally break them and have to repair them.

      Previous: 2010 JKUR AEV
      Current: 2012 JKUR AEV (FOR SALE) http://forum.aev-conversions.com/sho...189#post102189
      Next: 2016 JKUR Hard Rock

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      • #4
        Sure, as I said above, I spliced and soldered the jumper for the lower LED grounds into the existing ground wire on the sPod. After doing that, I realized that it would probably be a little cleaner to connect the new ground connectors to the existing wire with a spade connector.

        For the jumper wires, I used 2" sections of 18 gauge wire (total overkill) between each switch. I used a 4.5" section between switches 3 and 4 to get around the air pressure gauge.

        I had to look around quite a bit to find a dimmable circuit that I could hook into. There is one on both doors for the light on the door lock, but it was a little tight to get into.

        I have a 2012 and to get into the center section of the dash, you need to pop the panel under the hood off (unclip the top first), then remove the two screws on both sides of the steering column and the screw under the cover of the little pocket on the dash.

        The lower portion of the dash ( the part with the AC controls, seat heater switches, hazard, etc) pops off from the bottom and has to be unhooked from the upper portion.

        There is probably an easier place to hook in, but that is what worked for me. That is really all I can think of at the moment. If you come up with any questions, I will do my best to help out.

        I should also probably mention that the factory wiring is not very robust and you should be careful tapping into it. I felt comfortable adding 6 small LED's to the dimmable circuit, but John at sPOd does not recommend it. Probably for liability reasons.

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        • #5
          I just helped someone with an Aeroforce gauge on a sPod install some of the new laser etched switches from OTRATTW. I think it turned out really nice. the trick is to use one of the Autometer angle rings listed below.

          http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU

          You have to do a little sanding of the rings for clearance of the #3 and #4 switches, but the final product is pretty nice!
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #6
            Don't know how I missed this thread originally, but this is now DEFINITELY on my to-do list this winter when things slow down!
            '10 JKU Rubicon/auto/5.13s - AEV 4.5 + 37 KM2s (on Pintlers), AEV Front Bumper/Skid/Warn 9.5ti, AEV Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier, AEV Diff Skid, PS Evap Skid, Rock Hard Oil/Tran/Cat Skid

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            • #7
              It really turns out slick. One recommendation I would make though, get the laser etched switches without the bar on the bottom. I personally think the switches that have the bar on the bottom seem to be oriented a little better for the single LED, where the switches without the bar are set up a little better for the dual LED layout.

              Let me know if you have any questions when you do it!

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              • #8
                Looks great. I have the Aeroforce version, and it looks a bit too cramped for my taste...which totally bums me out.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Rynomar View Post
                  It really turns out slick. One recommendation I would make though, get the laser etched switches without the bar on the bottom. I personally think the switches that have the bar on the bottom seem to be oriented a little better for the single LED, where the switches without the bar are set up a little better for the dual LED layout.

                  Let me know if you have any questions when you do it!
                  That is what I was going to have them do when I finish getting all my electrical items. I think I will also need to call John at sPod to get a switch panel with 7 switches since I have a momentary ground switch.
                  Jon

                  2008 Rubicon Unlimited
                  4.5" AEV lift, 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers, AEV front/rear bumpers, AEV Corners, Factory Ten Axle Shafts.

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                  • #10
                    Hopefully he can work something out for you. If you don't get the console with the gauge in it, there should be room, but otherwise, I don't think you could fit it between the sun visors with seven switches.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Rynomar View Post
                      Hopefully he can work something out for you. If you don't get the console with the gauge in it, there should be room, but otherwise, I don't think you could fit it between the sun visors with seven switches.
                      I have an air gauge now, but I ended up with a CO2 tank, so I don't use the gauge. I would like an Aero Force gauge setup like I have been seeing, but I don't know how much I would use it.

                      I have seen John make custom panels for some of the vendors with up to eight switches, so I am hoping he would do it for me.
                      Jon

                      2008 Rubicon Unlimited
                      4.5" AEV lift, 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers, AEV front/rear bumpers, AEV Corners, Factory Ten Axle Shafts.

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                      • #12
                        Looks great. I have the sPod with the airgauge tied to the compressor. I mounted two Aeroforce gauges using Jk Gauge pods. It's probably overkill, but you can monitor just about everything.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Rubi-07 View Post
                          Looks great. I have the sPod with the airgauge tied to the compressor. I mounted two Aeroforce gauges using Jk Gauge pods. It's probably overkill, but you can monitor just about everything.
                          pic please.... It looks like I'm gonna be doing some electrical soon.... I can't wait, that's my favorite!!

                          I'm gonna do all my lights, compressor, lockpick, reverse camera / sensors, and maybe smart mirror all together.
                          Last edited by jadkar; 07-02-2012, 06:17 AM.
                          2012 JKU Arctic Edition 4.5" AEV / Clayton combo, 37" IROKs, ProRock 44, ARB Locked, + some stuff
                          2006 BMW M6 - SMG
                          2014 Acura MDX
                          1990 Honda CRX Si bored / stroked / supercharged ITR

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                          • #14
                            Sorry the pics aren't great. Just snapped a couple of quick ones with the iphone in bad light conditions.
                            Attached Files

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                            • #15
                              Forgot to mention, the mic for my lockpick is mounted just to the left of the "Off Road Lights" switch. It's hard to see in the pic, but you may be able to make it out. Works pretty good in this location and I like how well it fits on the extra space on the sPod.

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