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AEV 2" Lift on a Sahara JL, Advice Needed

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  • AEV 2" Lift on a Sahara JL, Advice Needed

    Hey Folks,
    I'm impressed with the quality of the AEV 2" spacer lift, and want to do a DIY install on my 2018 Sahara JL Unlimited.
    I have a few questions I'd like to get a handle on, before I attempt the DIY.
    1) With the two inch lift, AEV provides a longer set of Sway bar links for the front, but not the back. Other brands have different routines for this, so I am curious why they don't do anything for the back?
    2) I have a set of adjustable sway bar disconnects(other brand), that I have already purchased. I intend to use them with the AEV 2" spacer lift. Would it be a good idea to use the longer AEV sway bar links included with the lift, in the back?
    3) The control arm geometry correction brackets are an option for the 2" spacer lift. Any advice or tips for me as to whether or not to use them in this application?
    4) Tires would be next, and money is not unlimited, so any suggestions for wheels and tires combinations, that would be a nice size and price?
    Thanks for your time.

  • #2
    Hey bud! I did this exact lift myself on my 2018 Sahara:
    #1) The old front sway bar links get reused & moved to the back because they are longer. Protip: The install instructions dont tell you this, but you use a 6mm hex key on the outside to hold the swayer link bolt while you undo it.
    #2) Send em back. Most of those links require you to cut the brackets on the axle. Protip: the passenger side lower swaybar bolt doesn't have a nut. You can just unbolt the one side and velcro the swayer out of the way for a partial disconnect for FREE.
    #3) Yes you need something. The caster angle of the front axle gets shot and I HATED how it felt at first. I felt a lot more bumpsteer, when you hit a bump and the vehicle jerks left or right a bit. I bought 2 Mopar Part No 68322798AA, which are the control arms from the Mopar 2" lift kit. They are longer than stock, will get your caster right, and are $30 a piece HERE. Protip: You absolutely positively will need an impact gun to remove those bolts no matter which way you go. Do everything all at once and you will need an alignment when you're done.
    #4) I ran BFGoodrich KM3s in 295/70/r18 with no rubbing on the stock wheels. They looked sharp. The 295/70r18s weren't out yet, but I'm sure they'll fit too. I ran them for 15000 miles and had plenty of tread left. They were GREAT on the highway and I can't wait to put a set on my JT. I ran them at 35-37psi. Discount Tire always does a HUGE July Fourth sale and chances are your dealer is running a "Buy 3 get the fourth for $1 deal on tires".
    #5 BONUS-Wiring the Procal up: When you go to insert the wires into the OBD port they only slide in one way. If they dont go in easy rotate them 90 degrees and try again. You have to insert them almost a full inch to make sure they connect. Make sure to throw the Procal instructions in your glove box. I looked like a real dope in the parking lot of Discount Tire trying to look them up on my phone.
    #6 BONUS-Synergy Front Track Bar: The single biggest add-on that was worth every penny was getting a synergy adjustable front track bar. The stock track bar is too short and ends up bound. After I installed it I felt like I was driving a totally different vehicle. Most manufacturers use a fixed head, Synergy's isn't and it will never bind in any position. I just bought a JT Mohave and put one in it immediately and could feel the difference. Worth every penny.

    I know its a lot and I hope it all helps. OH make sure you have tall jack stands, not '3 ton' those are for cars and don't get the jeep vey high. Get '6 tons' if you dont already have em.